Skip to main content

Custom J-Boot

In order to maximise the airflow through the intake I've been meaning to replace the intake j-boot that fits between the throttle body and air flow meter - it's had a nasty crimp in it since I installed it and it really wasn't the best solution.

A 45ยบ elbow 80mm to 70mm reducing silicon intake hose was purchased from Demon Tweeks as well as a 19mm O.D. Revotec self-sealing take hose off from eBay.

The silicon hose comes with enough length on either end to trim it to fit. I then fitted the hose and mocked it up in the engine bay so I could figure out where to fit the take off for the hose that runs to the ICV.


After I was happy with that fit and had marked the point at where the hose should connect, I removed the j-boot and got ready to make the hole for the take off fitting.






The kit comes with a neat punch that makes the hole for the take off. A quick smack of the rubber mallet and voila!


Then insert the barb connector and tighten up the lock nuts and it's a neat install.


Then it was connect and tighten it all up then attach the ICV hose!


The result is a much neater intake assembly with no nasty crimps.


The custom J-boot should ensure a nice smooth airflow into the engine.

Labels:

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Engine out the top - Easy Peasy

After reading numerous posts, the Porsche workshop manual and Clarks Garage step-by-step engine removal guide - I felt confident enough to tackle the job. But I wanted to remove the engine from the top.  As I discovered, it was pretty straight forward even for a novice! Result. I wanted to avoid removing the cross member and disturb the front suspension to do something I was convinced could be done easier from the top. Posts such as this one convinced me to give it a go at least. And I'm glad I did. In summary I was able to remove the engine from the top without needing to remove the bonnet/hood; torque tube; transaxle; bellhousing; clutch; clutch slave cylinder; cross member; front suspension; and radiator. Contrary to many so called internet experts opinions and many confusing threads this was painless and without dread. All that was necessary to remove was the starter; power steering pump and alternator (I figured to make the bottom of the engine narrower); intak
19 comments
Read more

New Steering shaft bearing Nightmare removal

In my quest to tighten up the handling on the 944, I bought a new Needle Bearing from Porsche in an attempt to eliminate the fore-aft play in the steering at the top universal joint. The part number for the replacement is 477.419.059 and costs £88.86 posted from an OPC. Nothing like the effort required to actually remove the old one... I began the process by reading section 48 of Porsche Workshop manual. It appeared a simple enough process but two things bothered me: firstly, it required a chisel to remove a shear bolt (which in my limited experience never "shear"; and secondly a drill to remove two screws from the ignition lock. I was bothered because a quick look under the dashboard made it quite obvious that whoever had written the manual hadn't performed this task - well not without a dashboard in place that's for sure. I was bothered before I'd even started. Furthermore, the manual doesn't detail the replacement of this bearing at all - just the rem
3 comments
Read more

Bellhousing & Clutch fork removal

Removing the bellhousing from the Porsche 944 engine is not as complicated as it may seem - such as in this situation with my replacement engine. When I removed the original engine I detached it from the bellhousing in the car and removed the clutch pressure plate bolts through the starter motor hole - see my other post for details . In this case I decided to remove the clutch fork pivot shaft bolt. Begin by removing the four 17mm bellhousing bolts - you'll find that the bellhousing doesn't detach completely from the engine. It'll feel like its hooking on something. That something is the clutch fork pivot shaft inside the bellhousing. The bellhousing will be loose enough to rotate - turn it 180 degrees and peek through the access port which is now on top - this is what you'll see: If the engine is still in car you'll be looking at this from underneath. The pivot shaft needs to be extracted from the clutch fork. It's held in place by a small bolt on the
5 comments
Read more