Skip to main content

Bathed in burgundy again

It's funny how project cars evolve. A couple of years ago I stripped out the carpet and rubber sound deadening inspired by what Singer are doing to 911s. I must admit I loved the exposed tunnel but I've never got round to finishing off the floor and when I started to think about it, I felt like I wanted to put the burgundy back in...

After two seasons of trying to find a good second burgundy carpet set to modify so that I could keep the lovely white tunnel exposed, I've relented and dug my own set out from storage. They're obviously now extremely hard to come by and I figure I don't want my mint original carpets rotting away out of the car.

So with a rare 2017 sunny spring Saturday and a few hours to spare I removed the seats from TheHoff.

Then after giving the carpets a good vacuum, I started to place them in situ starting with the rear section. Thankfully I didn't need to remove the console, just remove the screws holding it in place.

Then the individual front footwells:

By this stage I was starting love the bathed in burgundy look again.

Guess who made these lovely seats...still in their original pinstripe & leather?

Yep. Recaro.

Back in went the seats for that fresh from factory look.

So after removing the interior to loose about 60kg I've just put a little back in. Surprisingly the carpets are relatively light - all the weight was in the thick rubber and tar based sound deadening pads. So TheHoff is still lightweight(er) after all plus it looks fantastic!


Popular posts from this blog

Engine out the top - Easy Peasy

After reading numerous posts, the Porsche workshop manual and Clarks Garage step-by-step engine removal guide - I felt confident enough to tackle the job.

But I wanted to remove the engine from the top. 

As I discovered, it was pretty straight forward even for a novice! Result.

I wanted to avoid removing the cross member and disturb the front suspension to do something I was convinced could be done easier from the top. Posts such as this one convinced me to give it a go at least. And I'm glad I did.

In summary I was able to remove the engine from the top without needing to remove the bonnet/hood; torque tube; transaxle; bellhousing; clutch; clutch slave cylinder; cross member; front suspension; and radiator. Contrary to many so called internet experts opinions and many confusing threads this was painless and without dread.

All that was necessary to remove was the starter; power steering pump and alternator (I figured to make the bottom of the engine narrower); intake setup and airb…

Vacuum lines and idle control fix

I've been hunting down an intermittent idle issue on TheHoff since our last Brand Hatch excursion - which led not only to testing & replacing parts but also eliminating others and making one completely from scratch!

As the Idle Control Valve (ICV or ISV) was the suspected culprit the whole intake manifold, throttle body, AFM and filter had to come out - oh and the fuel rail too. Actually it's less of a phaff than it sounds.
As ICV's are around £150 to replace I wanted to test mine to be sure it was faulty. After removing it from the underside of the intake manifold I jumpered it directly to the battery and it works perfectly with a very solid "clunk" when activated and deactivated. So that wasn't the issue.
I also made sure that the hoses running from the ICV to the intake and the J-Boot were correct also as I suspected I may have routed them incorrectly - turns out that was also correct according to how I had fitted the ICV.

So what ever was causing the …

Bellhousing & Clutch fork removal

Removing the bellhousing from the Porsche 944 engine is not as complicated as it may seem - such as in this situation with my replacement engine. When I removed the original engine I detached it from the bellhousing in the car and removed the clutch pressure plate bolts through the starter motor hole - see my other post for details.

In this case I decided to remove the clutch fork pivot shaft bolt.

Begin by removing the four 17mm bellhousing bolts - you'll find that the bellhousing doesn't detach completely from the engine.

It'll feel like its hooking on something. That something is the clutch fork pivot shaft inside the bellhousing. The bellhousing will be loose enough to rotate - turn it 180 degrees and peek through the access port which is now on top - this is what you'll see:

If the engine is still in car you'll be looking at this from underneath.

The pivot shaft needs to be extracted from the clutch fork. It's held in place by a small bolt on the underside …