Skip to main content

Hanging loose pulley!

On Friday of the long bank holiday weekend I decided to drive TheHoff to work - it appears as if Friday is the day to do such things with classic cars, as I see all manner of retro & classics out and about on dress down day, and I wanted to join in the fun & games.

Sadly my enthusiasm was curbed rather too soon into my drive...about 200 yards from my driveway when the low oil pressure warning light came on; the steering lost all powered assistance and my heart sank a little while I quickly did a u-turn and headed back for the garage and trusty Preston Tucker.

The cause of my short lived Friday expedition & distress, it turns out, was the crank pulley in rather unusual position - hanging loose.



Upon closer inspection I discovered that the 24mm crank pulley bolt had become undone and had fallen out completely but only as far as the engine undertray thankfully. Which I only thought of while retracing my route to search for the missing bolt...

I ordered up a fresh tube of Locktite from Amazon Prime for the weekend and on bank holiday Monday set to work with my OM doubling as bonding time.



What I was puzzled about was why the oil pressure light was on if only the outer pulley driving the power steering pump belt was loose...

After removing the radiator fan and plastic covers on the front of the engine I soon discovered that the inner balance shaft crank pulley was also loose and had come adrift from the woodruff key - no longer held in place by the crank pulley & bolt. Which explained why the oil pressure warning light had illuminated as the oil pump, which is run by the toothed balance shaft belt, was not being powered correctly. Furthermore, it was apparent that the balance shaft pulleys were no longer synced correctly. Oh boy. All of that in a few hundred yards. Thankfully this never happened further away from home!

Slackers...



When I rebuilt the engine I took Clarks advice and marked TDC clearly on the camshaft gear with pink nail polish which is now easy to see through the inspection hole at the back of the dizzy cap.



How'd I get TDC with the crank pulley & bolt out - just screw the bolt back in and turn with a large socket wrench...then remove the bolt again & begin installing the main balance shaft gear & crank pulley again.



The balance shaft gears have little marks at the back which are lined up with the plastic cover housing - I just mark them with a red pen to help with locating the marks down the front of the engine:





First on went the toothed gear then the crank pulley with the bolt torqued up to 210Nm (155ft.lbs) but not before copious amounts of Locktite!

 Without an available flywheel lock my Pops and I used 22mm open end spanner carefully wedged between the tensioner & toothed gear to lock it all down - plus someone standing hard on the brakes. All good on the torque wrench. Click.

With everything lined up the tooth belt was reattached and tensioned using the accentric bolt on the front of the oil pump gear:



Then it was on with the accessory belts and a beer. Before realising we'd not put the lower front plastic cover back on before the accessory belts...feck it, that can wait for next weekend before hopefully heading to Beaulieu Porsche Day.


Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Engine out the top - Easy Peasy

After reading numerous posts, the Porsche workshop manual and Clarks Garage step-by-step engine removal guide - I felt confident enough to tackle the job.

But I wanted to remove the engine from the top. 

As I discovered, it was pretty straight forward even for a novice! Result.



I wanted to avoid removing the cross member and disturb the front suspension to do something I was convinced could be done easier from the top. Posts such as this one convinced me to give it a go at least. And I'm glad I did.

In summary I was able to remove the engine from the top without needing to remove the bonnet/hood; torque tube; transaxle; bellhousing; clutch; clutch slave cylinder; cross member; front suspension; and radiator. Contrary to many so called internet experts opinions and many confusing threads this was painless and without dread.

All that was necessary to remove was the starter; power steering pump and alternator (I figured to make the bottom of the engine narrower); intake setup and airb…

Vacuum lines and idle control fix

I've been hunting down an intermittent idle issue on TheHoff since our last Brand Hatch excursion - which led not only to testing & replacing parts but also eliminating others and making one completely from scratch!

As the Idle Control Valve (ICV or ISV) was the suspected culprit the whole intake manifold, throttle body, AFM and filter had to come out - oh and the fuel rail too. Actually it's less of a phaff than it sounds.
As ICV's are around £150 to replace I wanted to test mine to be sure it was faulty. After removing it from the underside of the intake manifold I jumpered it directly to the battery and it works perfectly with a very solid "clunk" when activated and deactivated. So that wasn't the issue.
I also made sure that the hoses running from the ICV to the intake and the J-Boot were correct also as I suspected I may have routed them incorrectly - turns out that was also correct according to how I had fitted the ICV.


So what ever was causing the …

Bellhousing & Clutch fork removal

Removing the bellhousing from the Porsche 944 engine is not as complicated as it may seem - such as in this situation with my replacement engine. When I removed the original engine I detached it from the bellhousing in the car and removed the clutch pressure plate bolts through the starter motor hole - see my other post for details.

In this case I decided to remove the clutch fork pivot shaft bolt.

Begin by removing the four 17mm bellhousing bolts - you'll find that the bellhousing doesn't detach completely from the engine.

It'll feel like its hooking on something. That something is the clutch fork pivot shaft inside the bellhousing. The bellhousing will be loose enough to rotate - turn it 180 degrees and peek through the access port which is now on top - this is what you'll see:

If the engine is still in car you'll be looking at this from underneath.

The pivot shaft needs to be extracted from the clutch fork. It's held in place by a small bolt on the underside …